Standing on a giant snowy peak and feeling like a conqueror of the world is probably one of the most blissful and happy moments in life. Do you also want to experience those unforgettable sensations at least once? Then, we present to you our Baruntse expedition 2025- which is a 30-36-day journey into the very heart of the Solukhumbu and Makalu Barun National Park.
Mount Baruntse is regarded as a Himalayan Peak of a character, 7129 m tall between Everest and Makalu encircled by three glacial valleys of the Barun, the Hinku, and the Imja.
The white mountain peak was first successfully climbed on May 30, 1954, by Geoff Harrow and Colin Todd of a New Zealand expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary on its south-east ridge. Since then, the route has come into the limelight as the normal travel route to the top of the Peak.
Mirroring their footsteps on our Mt. Baruntse Expedition, we will also attempt the peak from its southeast face that will lead us outside the busiest commercial circuits.
The route then runs almost entirely over snow and ice and is not particularly technically difficult, with the exception of the steep climb to the West Col and the sometimes heavily overwatered ridge in the summit area.
Its summit offers one of the most prestigious high mountain panoramas on earth since we are surrounded by Makalu, Everest, and Lhotse with Cho Oyu and Kangchenjunga in the background.
In order to enhance the possibility of attaining success on the Peak, we will acclimatize first at the Mera Peak (6461 m) in our Baruntse Expedition. The Mera Peak is probably Nepal’s very best Trekking Peak with by far the greatest experiences and a fantastic top chance.
It is located south of Mt. Everest which allows us to walk a section of the trail running through the classic Everest trek.
Mera Peak is a non-technical Peak and the ascension to the Peak traverses the inclination of 35 degrees with simpler use of an ice ax and crampons. And from the top there is a view of five 8,000 m at once: Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse, Everest, and Cho Oyu.
Now, if you think these two stages of our Baruntse Expedition to be exceptional, then wait for the return trail that we have planned for you. The route constitutes a superb journey into Khumbu allowing us to discover valleys that are still wild which has made Nepal’s worldwide reputation.
All in all, we assure you the Baruntse Expedition 2025 is going to be a bona fide climbing journey that will involve components of 8000 m peak ascension. Thus availing itself as an ideal training snowy peak before making attempts for more climbing.
However, remember, the Baruntse expedition is only for experienced mountaineers which will demand the best of us, individually and collectively.
The Mt. Baruntse expedition gets underway from Lukla, then in the next few days, we will pass several hamlets of Hinku Valley that allow us ample chance to acclimatize before reaching the top of Mera La Pass and Mera Peak.
The next section of the expedition will then make us cross the White Lake (Seto Pokhari) which will guide us toward Baruntse Base Camp where we will spend the next few days for loading transports.
Then our Sherpa team will set up two High Camps (Camp I behind West Col. and Camp II on the edge of the southeast ridge). The summit will be pushed in the subsequent days after which, our return travel goes through several Khumbu Villages via Zatrwa la pass (4600 m) ending at Lukla.
On your arrival in the intriguing city of Kathmandu, our appointed representative with Hill Sherpa Signpost will graciously welcome you and drive you through the fragrant city to your hotel.
The afternoon is free to land and prepare for the expedition.
In the morning, there will be an orientation to carry out the pertinent process for the Mt. Baruntse expedition. Then, we will walk with the tour guide through the old Kathmandu at Durbar Square, Kumari’s house, Swayambhunath, Boudhanath, and the complex of Pashupatinath.
Note
If we have to get to Manthali Airport of Ramechhap, then we may drive in the afternoon cutting short the sightseeing tour. Thus, the overnight stay will be in Ramechhap. From 2019 April, the flights to Lukla were diverted from Kathmandu Airport to Ramechhap Airport due to high traffic pressure in Kathmandu.
The morning commences with the hastened drive to TIA and the chaotic flight to Lukla. We will then get ready to hike towards Mera Peak- the first section of the Baruntse expedition.
The track first goes down sharply for about two hours to Surke, then it steadily goes upwards for another two hours to Pake. Twisting through the gloomy rhododendron wilderness, Chhutak will be arrived at the bottom of the Kalo Himal Danda.
After Chhutak, the track calmly climbs upward towards 2945 m high Chhutak La Pass then it goes down sharply to Paiya Village nestled at the Paiya Khola shore.
We will walk over the river on a small shaking bridge and move upward towards Khari La Pass (3081 m). After walking down from the Pass, the track is relatively easy running through the cultivated lands of the locals and some bamboo and rhododendron thickets.
The walking trail is quite pleasant and here and there, we can see the Mani Walls, prayer flags, and chortens. Shortly, we will be at the lodge of Pangkongma to ease our tired legs. If tomorrow morning, the weather is pleased with us, we may see the Jiri route towards Everest Base Camp.
Our trekking path after leaving the lodge at Pangkongma will rise consistently till we are over the Pangkongma La Pass at 3175 m. We are now in the territory of the Hinku Khola Valley where we will bypass numerous Mani Walls en route.
The Shibuche village will be our site where we will take a lunch break. Then, we will continue the trek in a constant up-and-down cycle before crossing a bridge over the Hinku Khola River.
We will continue hiking through the Gai (Cow) Kharka pasture area and then reach our destination for the day, Raimailo Danda settled under the protection of Mojang, Mera, and Sanu Peaks.
Today is quite an adventurous day as our track will be quite tumultuous. Sometimes, the narrow balcony path through the jungles, sometimes some sharp inclines alongside the untamed wild rivers.
Our hardship will end us at the edge of the Tama Khola after about three hours. Of course, we will cross the river and march upward for another half an hour toward 4G Danda, a new tea house and beautiful location for taking lunch.
Now the lane runs down for 1.2 hours through the accustomed forests till we are at Chhatra Khola labeling our entry in the preserved zone of Makalu Barun Park.
Today the path first leads uphill for 1.45 hours through the gradually thinning jungle. Then the relatively simple path will guide us to Taktor around midday.
After a long lunch break, we will continue our hike towards Tashong Dingma. Then, traveling across the bridge over the Sanu Khola River, we will journey for two and half hours to reach our next overnight stop, Kothe also called Mosom Kharka – a cozy community located in the middle of the Hinku Valley.
In clear stable weather, the impressive prominent peak of Mera north face will be visible from here. It’s especially worth taking a photo with the mountain at sunset. Almost 3,000 meters of altitude separate us from the summit.
We will come through some small setters and follow the west bank of Hinku Drangka, where the valley slowly opens up and the last forest disappears.
We will pass the small monastery in Gondishung and climb further up the valley toward the two-centuries-old Lungsumgba Gompa. To the west, the twin peaks of Kunsum Kanguru Tower high in the sky, opposite in the valley are the satellite peaks of Mera Peak, and to the north, we have Peak 43.
Towards the afternoon we will arrive at Thaknak- a small Sherpa Buddhist village with a nice little monastery and incredibly quiet at the high altitude.
If we are well-spirited, we can go towards the Sabai Tsho glacial lake before continuing to our destination for today. Then, we will go up towards Dig Kharka’s hut, where we can see the beautiful Hinku Nup Glacier.
It is extremely beautiful here, and the scenery is simply impressive with Kangtega and Charpate Himal smiling at us. We will again walk the last bit up the Lhotse Shar Glacier to Khare.
We are directly at the ice giant Mera Peak, we can literally feel the giant’s breath.
We have an extra day in Khare to be as acclimatized as possible and either go towards the Mera glacier or up Khare Ri at an altitude of 5,500 meters.
The route to the Mera Glacier climbs steeply over scree and large boulders to the glacier tongue of the Mera Glacier. While the route to the Khare Ri climbs over a large vertical rocky terrain. Both spots give us some incredible panorama of Mera La Pass (5245 m) and Mera Peak (6461 m).
After a small trip, we will be at our lodge in Khare where there is often an opportunity to train how to use the equipment for the climb itself, review our equipment, and learn more about the further journey up the mountain.
We will begin the ascent to Mera Peak Base Camp with a climb over the glacier to Mera La, the watershed between the Hinku and Honku valleys. With all equipment, we will climb up the 20-30 degree incline towards the height of the Mera La Pass itself, which ends with a small traverse.
Makalu, Mera Peak, Everest, and Lhotse will be some of the impressive Himalayas we will see from the Pass. Then coming down by 100 m from the Pass, we will be at our campsite where there are a few simple huts.
High Camp is located on the northern slope of the mountain and is a perfect starting point for the summit day. We will take it easy, slow down and don’t start until late morning. The track is technically straightforward, but the surroundings are frightening. There are a few gap areas, and before the camp, it steepens a little more.
From the High Camp, there is one of the world’s best mountain Views – Mount Everest, Makalu, Nuptse, and Lhotse shine before us.
The top day starts early in the glow of the headlamp. The climb itself depends on the weather and the shape of the day, but at no point does it become technically difficult.
Relatively quickly, the Mera Central Summit appears on the horizon. We cross over the plateau and just before the summit, there are 50 steep and relentless meters to be overcome before a fresh wind blows into our faces and the central summit of Mera Peak is reached.
The view is simply world-class, up here we can see five 8,000 m: Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, and, of course, Mount Everest. In addition, there is a sea of mountains from 6,000 and up to 8,000 m including of course Baruntse and Chamlang.
After cheering at the top, we continue down to High Camp for a hot breakfast. Then after packing up our tents, we will move down to Kongma Dingma, very tired and happy.
The track keeps on losing altitude as we move down towards the Honku Valley. The tiny yak grazing pasture will be passed at the route, Baruntse is drawing closer to us.
The mountain lake of Honku will guide us toward the now-rising path that finally ends at Seto Pokhari.
Trekking today will take us closer to Baruntse. We will begin our ascension passing by virgin lakes and crossing ridges of snow and ice until we reach Baruntse Base Camp at noon. In the afternoon we will pitch up the tents where we will spend the next few days.
The Base Camp is located on grassy terrain and stone moraine, it is a pleasant and spacious place, with a fantastic and remote atmosphere. Here we will spend short periods to finish acclimatization and rest, it will be our home and our refuge.
We have saved this day for the rest so we can recharge our batteries for the ascension of the Peak. Meanwhile, we can survey the surroundings and look at the prominent rise of the Baruntse Himal which we will soon be conquering in the days ahead.
Today, our Sherpa climbing guide will conduct a puja ceremony to bless for the successful climb and the triumph of our Baruntse Expedition. We will gather together to participate in the ceremony, offering prayers for good weather, a successful ascent, and overall success.
After concluding the ceremony, our Sherpa team will provide us training on the proper use of climbing equipment including crampons, ice axe, ladder, carabiners, jumars, and harness, and most importantly, they will instruct us on ascending and descending along the fixed rope as a group.
In the next few days, the summit of Baruntse will be the absolute focus of our trip. In order to reach the summit of the still little-visited mountain, a chain of 2 high camps (Camp 1 and Camp 2) will be set up.
If the summit attempt is not successful on the first attempt, there will be reserve days available for another attempt provided the weather and acclimatization is normal. However, all camps must be cleared and the base camp reached again by the evening of the 28th day at the latest.
The route on the southeast ridge of Baruntse is a semi-technical climb (AD+) and runs mainly on snow slopes that do not exceed 50 degrees. The greatest difficulty is to reach Camp 1 and a frozen wall above 7,000 m, where our team of guides will install fixed ropes for our safety.
The mountain is equipped with two high-altitude camps:
Camp 1 at 6,100 m is set up after the West Col, on the wide snowy plateau at the beginning of the Barun glacier and at the foot of the southeast ridge.
Camp 2 at 6,400 m is installed on the ridge between two summits, in a flat enclave appropriate for the attack on the summit. Since the route from Camp 1 to the summit is very long and can only be completed in one day if the conditions are excellent and you are physically fit, Camp 2 is needed to be created.
On this route, the objective dangers (such as avalanches, falling rocks, or ice) are relatively low because the main part of the route runs along a ridge. In this place, our team of guides will fix safety ropes to minimize risks.
Push the Summit
The attack on the summit is carried out from Camp 2 and involves a strenuous effort. The climb, between 10 and 12 hours, will be the physical and mental strength of each participant, along with good acclimatization, that will push us to the highest point.
Mt. Everest will be in charge here while Makalu, Kanchenjunga, and Lhotse will also be side by side of the giant Himalaya.
After successfully attacking the summit, we will descend to Camp 1 and after rest, we will proceed to the Base Camp.
Attention
Please acknowledge the fact that the itinerary given here is only indicative. The guide remains the sole master to decide on possible modifications, particularly during the ascent, depending on the snow and weather conditions, as well as the fitness of the participants. Delays may occur, and we cannot be held responsible for them.
Once we finish our breakfast, our next task will be to clean up the base camp, dispose of the trash in the assigned area, and take down the tents. We will then trek back down through Seto Pokhari to Kongma Dingma. Another night will be spent camping under the shelter of the tent.
The night under the tent is over now, after we finish our breakfast, we journey down towards Mera Base Camp, Mera La Pass to Khare where the cozy shelter and its warmth await our arrival.
We have to go back towards Lukla, which takes three long but beautiful days. We will from Khare towards Dig Kharka and the Dig glacier and descend to Thakanak.
From here we will turn south and descend towards the Hinku Valley to the small settlements such as Gondishung, Osilo Kharka to Kothe.
From Kothe, we will continue south until about Tashi Ongma, where we slowly turn from the Hinku River and begin the rough ascent to Tashi
Dingma. From here we will continue up towards the large boulder at Thuli Kharka.
We will cross the 4,600-meter-high Zatrwa LaPass. The upward moving track is quite steep, but only about 300 meters. On the other side, it descends towards the Dudh Kosi valley and Chutanga, before we cross down towards Lukla, where we are once again in classic Everest civilization -cozy and lovely.
Early in the morning we will go over to Lukla’s Tenzing Hilary airport and get back to Kathmandu where a private car from our company will take us back to our hotel.
You will have a free day to take advantage to visit attractions you may have missed before. You can also take some time for souvenir shopping. In the evening, our team will gather to enjoy a classic Nepali dinner at a cultural restaurant in Kathmandu.
Today, you will leave us and continue your journey to your home. Our team will take you to TIA and wait till your departure time.
We provide customized best itinerary for 35 days and reasonable cost from Hill Sherpa Trekking:
We also operate private trips.
The two normal seasons for the Baruntse Expedition are before and after the monsoons (spring and autumn).
In the spring (March to May), Baruntse and Mera peaks along with the High Passes have little snow that has been swept away by the winter winds. This causes more sections of rock. The good thing is that the days are longer and the temperatures higher, especially as the season progresses.
In the fall (September to November), both Mera and Baruntse have more snow and it may be necessary to open a trail. On the other hand, the rock sections are covered with snow which reduces the difficulty.
The days are shorter and you have to be alert in case the winter winds come ahead. In the Mera and Baruntse Base Camps, it can be hot during the day, but it is always cold when the sun goes down. In high-altitude camps and, especially, on summit day, temperatures can be very low depending mainly on the strength of the wind that always blows at altitude.
In summer (June to August(, the monsoon rains dump a lot of snow on the mountains which makes the climb difficult.
Winter (December to February) is dry and with clear days, but the very low temperatures and hurricane-force winds multiply the harshness of the mountain.
The total length of the combined Baruntse expedition and Mera Peak climbing is around 174 km long. The peak of Baruntse is tucked away 164 km farther from the capital, 32.4 km from Lukla, and just 21.3 km from Mera Peak. On the other hand, Mera Peak is settled 152 km far from Kathmandu.
Lukla is the common starting point for climbing both peaks located 135 km air distance from Kathmandu. The distance is easily crossed within 35 minutes from Kathmandu and 20 minutes from Ramechhap.
The highest altitude of our entire Mt. Baruntse Expedition is the Peak of Baruntse at 7129 m and the highest altitude of our resting place is at Camp 2 of the Baruntse Himal at 6400 m.
Our 36-day-long Baruntse expedition has a total of 29 days allocated for hiking and climbing adventure excluding the two rest days at the Baruntse base Camp. These two acclimatization days will be fully dedicated for rest, training, and preparation.
The greatest amount of walking will be done on the day of the Baruntse climb, with a total time of 10 to 12 hours required to reach the peak and return to base camp. The shortest walk will occur on day 9 when traveling from Thaknak to Khare, taking only 2 to 3 hours.
The Baruntse expedition with Mera Peak is graded AD+ characterizing this journey as a somewhat difficult and strenuous trip. The Peak itself is not a very technical or difficult mountain but the route to the peak is slightly challenging.
We have to tackle the vertical climb to the West Col when progressing to Camp 1 from the base camp where fixed ropes will be pre-installed. Therefore, it is important to have good practice in progression with crampons on all types of slopes up to 50 degrees on glacial and mixed terrain, good rope management and safety techniques, as well as extensive experience in winter and high-altitude mountaineering.
In addition, because of the altitude of over 7000 m, it is not the place nor the peak to be learning mountain skills and techniques. These will have to have been worked intensely before, and you must go on the Mt. Baruntse expedition with sufficient practice, expertise, and experience, reaching the appropriate level for the objective to be achieved with full autonomy. No new climbers should participate in this expedition.
Also, each of the members must meet both physical and mental conditions to undertake this type of expedition, since otherwise all of his or her expectations may be frustrated.
As part of our Baruntse Expedition 2025 itinerary, we have proposed an option to climb Mera Peak to increase the success rate at the Baruntse Peak. This peak exceeds the 6000 m mark and is the best trekking peak en route, which will aid each member in better acclimatization before reaching the Peak itself.
Additionally, we have planned two rest days at Baruntse Base Camp and a few others in High Camps to maximize the physical and mental readiness and well-being of each member before pushing to the summit.
The Baruntse Peak trek and its ascent go up to quite high altitudes, for example, we will sleep at 6400 m height which is more than the height of the Mera Peak, Lobuche Peak, and the Island Peak.
Therefore, we strongly advise you to train before the Baruntse expedition. We recommend physical activities approximately three times a week preferably several months before departure.
The trek to Mera and Baruntse Base Camps is medium-strenuous hiking. So your training should be based on some relatively long hikes and walks to get the body used to being on the move for many hours.
Here the pace is not decisive, but a long ride for most of a day works wonders. Also, cycling, running, football, swimming activities can enhance the endurance level. And don’t forget the stair training to get your legs ready to carry you up the mountain.
You cannot train for altitude and acclimatization from home and therefore you should prioritize endurance as the most important factor.
As an extension to the Baruntse Expedition route, you can also add the Amphu Laptsa Pass (5,780 m) crossing to your itinerary. The Pass takes you into the main Everest area. Passing Lhotse, Island Peak, and Ama Dablam, you will continue leisurely down into the valley, passing the beautiful monastery complex in Tengboche and stopping in the Sherpa capital Namche Bazaar.
You can also omit the Mera peak sumitting en route and directly trek to Baruntse Base Camp via Mera La Pass. Or, you can opt for a helicopter ride back from the base camp of Baruntse to Lukla. These two alternatives will cut short the total duration of the expedition to 24 days.
The biggest problem we are going to face in the Mt. Baruntse expedition is altitude sickness. Acclimatization does not depend on the level of training, although this will always favor the process.
There are people who acclimatize quickly and others slowly. Even people who have not previously had problems can be affected. Therefore, we must give utmost importance to correct, slow, and progressive acclimatization, especially at the beginning of the expedition, using the classic sawtooth technique (climb higher and sleep lower again).
We should not be in a hurry to attack the summit until we are well-acclimatized. In any case, you have to know how to accept the normal symptoms of acclimatization: headaches (paracetamol helps a lot), lack of energy, lack of appetite, and insomnia.
Diamox will be the solution to reduce the mild symptoms but if it doesn’t help, the only and best solution is to descend.
A private vehicle will be provided for all airport and hotel transfers. We will also coordinate your flights from Kathmandu/Ramechhap to Lukla and back, in addition to providing a private vehicle for transportation to and from Ramechhap airstrip. Additionally, a private city tour of Kathmandu with a driver, guide, and private vehicle will be organized.
In Kathmandu, double rooms in a three-star hotel guaranteeing peace and quiet with a personal toilet will be fixed for your stay. During the trekking travel, as much as possible, the best tea house with double beds will be your sleeping shelter. During camping, two people in three-person tents, equipped with foam mattresses will be provided.
In Kathmandu, you will be responsible for your own lunch and dinner, but breakfast is part of the Baruntse Expedition 2025 package.
During the stay in the tea house, a comprehensive meal (breakfast, dinner, lunch with tea and fresh fruits) will be at your service. During camping, a cuisine prepared with care by the cook and his assistants varied and adapted to the effort will be available to you.
The local NTC and NCELL networks provide cellular signals for almost all trekking routes, except for at the peaks, base camps, and high camps. Hence, we will provide satellite phones, and radio sets for communication in the camps. The NTC and NCELL also have 4G internet service for internet usage.
Along the route, the tea houses are powered by solar panels and an aggregator. In addition, we will offer solar charging for all your electronic devices and gadgets at the base and high camps.
In the Everest region, you can utilize Airlink or Everest Link for WiFi while on the track. However, internet access may not be available at the base and high camps. If you manage to catch a signal from NTC or NCELL (which may be sporadic), you can still get online.
The Baruntse expedition, combined with Mera Peak climbing, requires peak climbing permits for both Mera and Baruntse from the Nepal Mountaineering Association in Kathmandu, in addition to the Local Area Permit, Everest/Sagarmatha National Park permit, and Makalu Barun National Park permit.
(Note: first aid kits & medicine will be carried with our company’s guide during the trekking However, we recommend you bring your personal first-aid kit)
Yes, you can avoid the Mera peak climbing and trek directly from Mera La Pass to Baruntse Base Camp.
Your travel insurance should cover for trekking and climbing activities in the Everest area to an altitude of more than 7000 m along with rescue by helicopter. It should also include common illnesses, accidents, injuries, theft, and trip and flight cancellations.
The best itinerary for this expedition is the one that involves the acclimating option either at Mera Peak or Amphu Laptsa Pass before attempting the Baruntse summit.
You can next attempt the Ama Dablam Peak (6819 m), Manaslu Peak (8163 m), Annapurna (8091 m), Makalu (8,463 m), or Everest (8848 m) in the future.
US$ 8999

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